Argentina – Cruising the Altiplano of the Andes
La Puna Around Salta Offers Majestic Scenery and Awesome Off-roads
Jan 8, 2009
West of Salta, in northwest Argentina, lies the Andean Altiplano, or "La Puna de Atacama" – an immense desert at an elevation of three to four thousand metres. The landscapes are awe-inspiring, the roaming llamas and vicuñas a sight for sore eyes. The following route, Salta - Purmamarca - San Antonio de los Cobres - Tolar Grande, is largely off the beaten track.
Traversing the Salinas Grandes of Argentina
Follow Ruta 9 north to Purmamarca, through the extraordinary Quebrada de Humahuaca – a Unesco World Heritage Site. West from Purmamarca starts the Paso de Jama which crosses the Salinas Grandes [Salar Olaroz], where salt mining is one of the economic resources of the region. It's possible to drive onto the salt flats to admire this white ocean. While you drive westwards the elevation rises and llamas make place for gracious vicuñas that roam the countryside.
Thermal Bath near Sey
From the Salinas continue further west as far as Susques [petrol station]. At Susques turn left to Sey. The route crosses the Tropic of Capricorn twice and passes through two traditional villages with adobe houses and thatched roofs where the local source of income is handicrafts. A volcano has created the thermal bath just south of Sey, a very basic facility but comfortably warm on the high and windy Puna.
Tren de las Nubes at la Puna
The road leads down to San Antonio de los Cobres where the famous "Tren de las Nubes" ["Train of the Clouds"] passes on a daily schedule, an expensive day-trip for tourists, departing from Salta.
Pachamama Shrines at the Altiplano
Southwest of San Antonio de los Cobres lies an extraordinary route to Tolar Grande, not yet discovered by mass tourism. The road requires four-wheel drive. Stock up on fuel in San Antonio de los Cobres because there is no petrol station between the two towns [200 - 250 kilometres]. Don't forget to bring [and drink] lots of water to minimize the risk of altitude sickness.
This route leads deep into Puna-country, which is evident from the large number of Pachamama shrines, called "Apachetas". Pachamama is Mother Nature; she protects the shepherd and his herd as well as the hiker who offers at the "apachetas" – rock piles. To make a shrine, a hole is dug in which food and drinks are offered. The hole is then closed with stones and subsequently devotees can pour drinks over the stone and leave the empty bottles behind.
Salt Flats and Desierto del Diablo of northwest Argentina
A washboard road leads to Salar the Pocitos, crossing yellow grasslands dissected by minuscule crystal-clear streams. Mountains take on hues varying from orange to reddish and are bare except for a bit of grass or moss.
The crossing of the immense Salar de Pocitos is followed by traversing the bright red rock formations of the awe-inspiring Desierto del Diablo ["Desert of the Devil"], where absolutely nothing grows. It is one of South America's many "Valles de la Luna" ["Valleys of the Moon"].
Tolar Grande Amidst the Andes Mountains
The town is situated along a salt flat, with beautiful "Ojos de Salar" – "Eyes of the Salt Flat" – stunningly blue holes in an ocean of white. Tolar Grande has a tiny Tourist Information where the friendly Elsa will explain what kind of tours can be undertaken – independently or organized – in the stunning surrounding area.
From Tolar Grande it is possible to drive south to Antofagasta de la Sierra although it is by no means a trial to drive back to Salta via the same route crossing once more the stupendous Puna de Atacama.
Camping in Northwest Argentina
Towns often have campsites and once in the wilderness there are plenty of lonely spots for excellent bush-camping; gps waypoints may be a good help to find the most beautiful spots.
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