Argentina – Iruya and Yavi in Jujuy Province
Two Colonial Villages in Stunning Settings With Hiking Opportunities
Jan 8, 2009
Jujuy province is worth several weeks of exploring. Leaving the highway and following unpaved gravel roads leads to to stunning natural phenomena as well as to Andean villages where the ambience is more Bolivian than Argentinean. Two of these villages lie in the upper northwest of the Jujuy province: Iruya and Yavi.
Driving to Iruya in Jujuy Province
Iruya, officially part of Salta province but reached via Jujuy province, is accessed from the Quebrada de Humahuaca on Ruta 9, and lies another 50 kilometres deeper in mountainous territory. It is reached via a rough, unpaved road which during the dry season [April - December] can be driven in a regular vehicle. No four-wheel drive is essential. The road slowly meanders uphill, crossing small streams and at intervals mud farmhouses with thatched roofs dot the landscape.
The road ascends to a pass at almost 4000 metres where with luck a herd of vicuñas may be spotted. The views from the pass to the other side are stupendous: precipices drop down steeply and the mountains unfold themselves in a splendid array of colors.
Iruya Town in Jujuy Province
The road descends steeply and quickly, leading through jagged mountains until it ends in a gorge, following a stream north until it reaches Iruya. The cobbled streets are steep and lined with small houses built anywhere between centuries ago and yesterday. It is being discovered by tourists and although it has retained its authenticity, the first hostels and tourist-restaurants have found their niche. It has no cultural highlights but is a town where you take in the local ambience,chat with the friendly inhabitants and admire the views. The setting invites hiking and off-roading to surrounding villages.
More interesting off-roading can be found west of the Quebrada de Humahuaca, on Argentina's altiplano.
Yavi's Iglesia de San Francisco and Casa del Marqués Campero
Yavi is accessed from Ruta 9, just below La Quiaca, marking the border with Bolivia. An unpaved, gravel road leads into the beautiful Río Yavi, where after sixteen kilometres Yavi awaits. With its thatched adobe houses, the picturesque hamlet blends in with its surroundings of red coloured mountains. While retaining its local ambience, it has the amenities to receive tourists, like hostels, eateries and internet.
In the central plaza, shaded by plane trees, stands the 17th century San Francisco church. The friendly caretaker will proudly point out the eclectic collection of a painting originating from Belgium, windows made of onyx and woodcarvings of its patron saint Francisco de Assisi. If the church is not open [9am-noon and 3-6pm Tuesday-Friday and 9am-noon Sunday], ask around for the caretaker at the museum Casa del Marqués Campero, across the street.
Casa del Marqués Campero once housed an "encomienda" which was part of the colonial labor system under which Indian communities were required to provide laborers for the Spaniards. In return the Spaniards had to protect and convert them to Catholicism. Nowadays a museum [free of charge, open 9am-noon and 3-6 pm Monday-Saturday], it displays a miscellaneous collection of artworks and furniture.
From Yavi there are walking trails around the nearby Cerros Colorados [coloured mountains], including rock paintings and petroglyphs.
Car Rental in Salta
Although there are buses going to both towns, having your own transportation has an additional value: stopping at any point one wishes to take in the views or to take a picture. Car rental is possible in Salta, check the conditions for off-road driving and the options for crossing a pass into Chile – these are not automatically included in the rental.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
