Argentina – Jesuit Estancias around Córdoba
Unesco's World Heritage Sites of Alta Gracia and Santa Catalina
Sep 7, 2008
During the 17th century Jesuits started schools and universities in Córdoba. In order to finance these, estancias were set up, where agriculture and cattle breeding prospered. The Jesuits rapidly progressed to becoming rich, powerful and independent organizations. Too much so to the liking of the Spanish crown, which resulted in the expulsions of the Jesuits in 1767. The estancias fell into decay until Unesco gave them a new status, and today the legacies of the Jesuit Trail can be visited and enjoyed.
The Museum of Jesuit Estancia Alta Gracia
Thirty-five kilometres southwest of Córdoba lies Estancia Alta Gracia, dating from 1643. Its main source of income was the breeding of mules, which were subsequently transported via the "Camino Real" [Royal Road] to Lima – the South American capital of the Spanish empire – and to Potosi to work in the silver mines.
In 1977 the government turned this estancia into an excellent museum [entrance fee A$2 /US $0,60]. Part of the estancia is the church, noticeable for having the bells on the back of the roof instead of on the front. Connected to the church is a large green patio, surrounded by the cloisters with seventeen rooms, where the estancia's history is displayed through ancient furniture, utensils and pieces of art.
There are information sheets in English and French, and short explanations in braille too, explaining in detail the lives of the Jesuits and of one of the estancia's other important owners – the Viceroy of Rio de la Plata who lived here for a short while in the beginning of the 19th century.
The Church of Jesuit Estancia Santa Catalina
Situated about 20 kilometres northwest of Jesus María, amidst the desolation of agricultural fields, lies the impressive, perfectly kept estancia – the only Unesco estancia under private ownership.
The Jesuits came here in 1622 and as in Alta Gracia, the main activity on this estancia was the breeding of mules. Only five fathers ran the estancia, managing hundreds of African slaves and native Comechingones tribes.
The Baroque-styled church has an altarpiece of carved and gilded wood, depicting the patron saint Santa Catalina of Alexandria, as well as several other saints. Notice the two small balconies high up in the transepts, used by the sick to attend mass without the risk of infecting others.
Visiting Jesuit Estancia Santa Catalina
After the expulsion of the Jesuits the estancia became the property of the Díaz family, which it is until today. When they are in residence, only the church can be visited [on a guided tour]. During the family's absence the guide will also show the three beautiful, rustic patios – dating from the 16th to 18th centuries. Entrance fee for the church and the patios is A$3 [US $0,85] each.
Accommodation at Jesuit Estancia Santa Catalina
Permanent residents of the estancia's grounds are the hospitable owners of the adjacent "Ranchería de Santa Catalina". They have restored part of the old slave quarters, in which a bar&restaurant, arts and crafts shop and a small hostel are housed.
Related Articles on Activities Around Córdoba and Other Museums in Argentina
- Resources for Travel in Central Argentina gives an overview of unique accommodations, outdoor activities like paragliding and Argentina's largest festival Doma y Folkore.
- Resources for Travel in Argentina – Museums and Cultural Centres gives an overview of other museums in Argentina, like the nearby musum Alta Gracia on Che Guevara and Córdoba's cultural centrum Buen Pastor.
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