Argentina – Quebrada de Humahuaca in the Andes

Northwest Province Jujuy Features a Unesco World Heritage Site

Dec 9, 2008 Karin-Marijke Vis

Ruta 9 leads through Argentina's most dramatic and colourful canyon, where archeological sites may be found and adobe villages still uphold the Andean way of life.

Driving through the 160 kilometres long Quebrada de Humahuaca is one of Jujuy's astounding journeys – the stretch was declared a Unesco World Heritage site for its cultural and historical riches. Museums and archeological sites give an account of Quebrada de Humahuaca's history; the daily, Andean life is best appreciated in one of the lovely, mud-brick villages along the way. The trip is described from south to north.

Entering Quebrada de Humahuaca

North of San Salvador de Jujuy the scenery changes abruptly and dramatically: the valley narrows to a gorge which at Volcán becomes Unesco's World Heritage Site "Quebrada Humahuaca". Ruta 9 follows the Rio Grande, the "Big River", a gently flowing stream during the dry season, splitting the gorge in two: copper-green mountains on the left and deep-red ones on the right side, where the protected Cardón cacti [Saguaro cacti] dot the hills. About forty kilometres north of Volcán, take the turn-off to Ruta 52, deeper into the mountains to Purmamarca.

Andean Town of Purmamarca

At almost 2200 metres, "Village in Virgin Lands" is situated under the Hill of Seven Colours and despite its attraction as a tourist centre, Purmamarca has kept its Andean feel. To appreciate the roughness and beauty of the area, take an early morning walk over "El Paseo de los Colores" which loops behind the town. Around the plaza of Purmaraca, the locals sell Andean handicrafts like sweaters and shawls made of llama or vicuña wool, silver, and "mate" cups [drinking cup for a specific herbal tea] in all shapes and sizes.

Posta de Hornillos in Quebrada de Humahuaca

Return to Ruta 9 where a few kilometres further north stands Posta de Hornillos [at km sign 73]. During colonial times it functioned as a roadside inn on the "Camino Real" [Royal Road] between the viceregal capitals of Buenos Aires and Lima. During the fight for independence, early 19th century, Posta de Hornillos was turned into a military post. Nowadays it houses an informative museum [Spanish only], showing aspects of the first inhabitants 9000 years ago up to the arrival of the first car in the Quebrada de Humahuaca region in 1910. Entrance fee 3 pesos [US$ 1], open from Wednesday-Monday, 9am-6pm.

Cemetery at Maimará

Maimará stretches across the valley of Quebrada de Humahuaca, at the foot of the hill with the stunning arched rocks of "La Paleta del Pintor" [Painter’s palette]. Against a hillside on the northern edge of Maimará lies a large graveyard, colorful in its variety of crosses and multitude of plastic flower garlands.

Pre-Columbian Town of Tilcara

This popular tourist town stands out for its mud brick houses and attractive, shady plaza where locals sell Bolivian-style handicrafts. Just one kilometre south of Tilcara lies El Pucará: on an isolated hill, the remains of a pre-Columbian fortification have been excavated and nowadays constitute an open-air museum. El Pucará offers astonishing views over the gorge. Entrance fee 10 pesos, also valid for the El Pucará museum downtown Tilcara. Opening hours daily from 9am-12.30pm and 14-18pm.

The Colonial Town of Humahuaca

Fifty kilometres north, at an altitude of 300 metres, lies Humahuaca, similar to Tilcara in style with cobbled streets, quaint shops and a lively plaza. It is an attraction for just as many tourists as Tilcara who love to shop for Andean souvenirs.

About forty kilometres north of Humahuaca is a turn-off to the isolated village of Iruya, which lies another fifty kilometres deeper into the mountains. Iruya is worth visiting for its stunning setting, local feel and has beautiful off-roading tracks in the surrounding area. Thirty kilometres further north on Ruta 9, at Tres Cruces, Quebrada de Humahuaca ends.

Hotels, Restaurants, and Tourist Information in Quebrada de Humahuaca

All towns mentioned above are equipped for tourists with hostels and restaurants, and each town has a Tourist Information at, or near, the central plaza where more information can be obtained about other interesting sights in the vicinity.

Car Rental in Salta and San Salvador de Jujuy

Although buses reach all destinations described, renting a car has its advantages: stopping at any point to admire the views or to take a picture. Cars can be rented in Salta and Jujuy, check the conditions for off-road driving and the options for crossing a pass into Chile – these are not automatically included in the rental.

If one doesn't like to visit the region independently it may be an option to do this by organised tour.

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Quebrada de Humahuaca, Northwest Argentina	Bolivian Handicrafts in Purmamarca	Iglesia Santa Rosa de Lima in Purmamarca
Graveyard in Maimará, Quebrada de Humahuaca	Flowering Cardón Cacti, Quebrada de Humahuaca