Argentina – Rosario's Churches and Urban Museum

A Walking Tour Along Mural Paintings of Berni, Vanzo and Berlengieri

Jul 14, 2008 Karin-Marijke Vis

Enjoy a one hour walking tour around the urban museum of Rosario with murals by local painters, an Anglican church, historic buildings and Che Guevara's house of birth.

Pick up a map at the Tourist Information [corner Av Belgrano and Buenos Aires] and cross the street to the Aduana. The ground floor of the Aduana has been there since 1874, the rest was added in 1938. The hall houses a permanent exhibition with beautiful black & white photos depicting life in Rosario around 1900. Leave the building by the back, on Urquiza. Ready for coffee or a bite to eat? Check out "El Pasaporte" [across the street], a cosy bar and a pleasant outdoor café.

Walking Tour Along Rosario's Urban Museum With Murals of Local Painters

Follow Urquiza westwards. In the first street on the left [Cabral], take a peek at the urban museum mural on the wall of the Majestic Hotel – a painting of an elderly lady, by the Rosarion painter Antonio Berni. Continue on Urquiza and on the right side is the "Bandoneón" by Rosarion artist Julio Vanzo; further down there are two more paintings on the left. Notice how in the second one the windows of the building are completely incorporated in the painting [by Juan Berlengieri]. Most murals are on or around Urquiza Street but they are elsewhere in the city as well.

Walking Tour Along Che Guevara's House of Birth and Rosario's Anglican Church

While Che Guevara's name is famous, it is not commonly known that his place of birth was here, in Rosario. On the corner with Entre Ríos Street stands the Parisian-style apartment where Ernesto Che Guevara was born. Two blocks further down on Urquiza, squeezed between the towering flats of the 21st century, stands find the picturesque, brick Anglican church of St. Bartholomew, dating from 1874.

Take a left onto Paraguay and stop at number 750. What does the façade tell? Certainly not that in earlier days the building belonged to some Catholic, religious order and was a place where the monks ate. But according to the guard that is what it was. Rosario's historic buildings all have their own stories. Often there is someone – an owner, guard, employee – who will proudly show visitors around inside a building, telling its tale. One can be surprised how much of the former wealth is still visible – stained glass, carved doorpanels, mosaic floors, tiled walls, etc. Notice also the differences in for example latticework, from Jugendstil to Art Deco to amalgams of traditional and modern styles.

A Hidden Church Downtown Rosario

Continue on Paraguay up to the peatonal [pedestrian area] with Córdoba. Turn left, follow Córdoba for two blocks, and take a left onto Entre Ríos. The huge white construction houses La Universidad de Belles Artes y Humanidad. It's dilapidated and dirty, but the marble stairs still give it an air of a rich past. Ask for directions to the library because here lies the hidden treasure of this building – concealed amidst the chaos of the University there is complete silence in the library which is housed in an old, whitewashed church.

Coffee Bar the "Centre of Cataluña" Downtown Rosario

Across from the entrance of the University is a tiny bar. Enjoy a cup of coffee and savor a piece of excellent cake [ricotta-chocolate cake is recommended], while admiring the cosy old "Centre of Cataluña" with its blue-tiled walls and marble stairs.

Walking Tours in Rosario Along Murals, Churches and Che Guevara's House of Birth

Rosario is one of Argentina's cultural cities and has much to offer in terms of murals as well as historical buildings like the Anglican Church. Two blocks down on Santa Fe and Sarmiento starts another walking tour, focussing on protected architecture in the city. Or pick one of the other walking tours around Rosario's historic legacy.

The copyright of the article Argentina – Rosario's Churches and Urban Museum in South America Travel is owned by Karin-Marijke Vis. Permission to republish Argentina – Rosario's Churches and Urban Museum in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

Mural by Antonio Berni, Rosario, Argentina	Aduana Building Along the Río Parana, Rosario	Mural by Juan Berlengieri, Urban Museum of Rosario
Anglican Church of St. Bartholomew, Rosario

What do you think about this article?

---

NOTE: Because you are not a Suite101 member, your comment will be moderated before it is viewable.

post your comment

What is 5+4?

Comments

Aug 15, 2009 3:46 PM

Guest :

My cousin has found out that her Grandmothers family, her great grand parents left England and went to live in Rosario. The information is extremely interesting.

1 Comment: