Argentina: Rosario's Landmark Plaza 25 de Mayo
A Walking Tour around the City's Oldest Square and Social Centre
In 1852 Rosario was declared a city and in the course of time has become Argentina's third urban area. La Plaza 25 de Mayo became Rosario's first landmark and social centre. The elaborate architecture around the plaza largely dates from earlier days and former wealth and culture ooze from every nook and cranny.
Cathedral and Municipality
The one hour walking tour around the plaza starts at the Catedral Basílica Santuario Nuestra Señora del Rosario. The first chapel was built in the 1730s, the cathedral wasn't constructed until 1882. Two pieces of art stand out: the stained glass window above the wooden entrance in the porch, depicting the blessing of the Argentinean Flag in 1812, and the Stations of the Cross which are bronze reliefs by local sculptor Eduardo Barnes.
In 1896 El Palacio Municipal was constructed [also called "Palacio de Leones" - after the lions that flank the stairs. Inside, you see the old Rosarion shields above some of the doors, featuring the flag, the Paraná shore and wheat stalks - the symbols of the city. The same elements are used in the carvings of the wooden entrance door. Take a look in the first hallway on the right: until ten years ago, the stained glass windows formed the door to the adjacent building - the bishop’s residence - which in turn was connected to the Cathedral. The bishop’s residence was taken down to construct the "Pasaje Juramento", the footbridge which connects the Plaza with "El Monumento de la Bandera" [the monument of the flag].
Artwork in Museum and Buildings
Continue to Estévez Museum on Santa Fe Street [open Wed-Sun 15-20pm, Sat & Sun 10-20pm]. Constructed in 1888 as a residence, the museum now houses an outstanding collection of pictures, sculptures, marvelous pieces of glasswork, silverware, marble, and other artwork from the 17th century on.
The building on the corner of Santa Fé and Laprida, houses a government department [SeNaSa]. Notice how the latticework of the ground floor differs from that of the first floor. Also notice the large urns on top of the building and how parts of the decoration under the roof have come off. These lie stacked inside, waiting for the "right" moment to be restored - whenever that may be. Inside there still is an ancient mantel piece, stained glass windows and carved, wooden doorpanels.
On the next corner, Córdoba and Laprida, look up at the roof of "La Bola de Nieve", a housing complex dating from 1906, named after the sculpture of a snowball on top of the building.
Protected Status of Historical Buildings
In time, the old police headquarters gave way to the post office, which outgrew itself and in 1938 the current building was constructed - the main postoffice. Admire the huge lanterns that hang from the high ceilings and the large, decorated clock on the outside. The police headquarters was the last of the historic buildings around the plaza.
Although most of the buildings around the square have a protected status, we can only hope that they won't be demolished to make way for another of those ugly apartment buildings that seem to take over this old city.
Hungry or Thirsty?
Walk down the Pasaje Juramento and the Monument of the Flag to the waterfront, where you'll find pleasant outdoor cafés at the Estacion Fluvial to eat a sandwich or drink a coffee. Ready for another walking tour? The itineraries Murals and Churches in Rosario and Historic Buildings in Rosario both start nearby. Or check out the recently inaugurated Che Guevara Statue.
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