The border crossing from Argentina into Bolivia takes the traveller through the Argentine town of La Quiaca and drops them into the Bolivian equivalent called Villazón. Both towns at first appear lazy and uneventful and the easy walk across the border seems straightforward. However, sneaky operations are part and parcel of catching unsuspecting travellers and border crossing theft does happen.
Advice for Crossing the Border From Argentina Into Bolivia
It is not advisable to walk across the border and nor leave the relatively safe confines of the bus station at La Quiaca until the sun has risen. The walk to the border is about 20 blocks and there are some no-good characters waiting for tired and unsuspecting travellers while the world is still in darkness.
Having said that, waiting at the bus station in La Quiaca is not such a fantastic experience either. The best advice is to time the entire journey well. Waiting in the freezing cold station for about an hour until the only café opens at about 7am is not fun. There´s nowhere to sit, it's very crowded and the buses that go to the border from places further south in Argentina, like Salta for example, are also some of the worst in terms of comfort in South America.
Transportation at the Border Crossing Between Argentina and Bolivia
This is perhaps hard to believe, as South American transport in general is very good. Well run, efficient and cheap. But the routes to the border are old, the companies that go there provide a very basic service and it gets incredibly cold at night, both on the bus and in the bus stations too.
In addition, ridiculously loud music is played on the buses during the night when everyone is trying to sleep and all in all makes for an incredibly uncomfortable journey. Therefore, arriving before the sun comes up, without heat, food and shelter (La Quiaca Bus Station is really no more than a bus shelter) is something to avoid at all costs.
The Dangers of Crossing Border in Argentina and Bolivia
When eventually making the border crossing itself after sunrise (which is done fairly simply on foot) be sure to take heed from other travellers. It is not uncommon to experience difficulties when making the crossing even during the full light of day.
A typical trap is to be befriended by a Spanish speaking stranger who offers to walk across the border with the unsuspecting tourist to offer Spanish assistance and support. It is common to be approached by Spanish speakers who claim to be travelling too and who therefore appear to be harmless.
The next step comes in the form of being stopped by border police. Sometimes they are fake border police and sometimes they are, unfortunately, real border police working outside of the law. The police will ask to search the belongings of the tourist and of the new Spanish speaking friend, so as not to look suspicious. Only once on the other side of the border, when wanting to change money, will the traveller realise that they have been robbed. Very clever work.
Having said that, not every story in the world is a negative one. Some people have little trouble at all when crossing this border.
The Safest Way to Cross the Border Between Argentina and Bolivia
- Stock up on some medialunas and coffee in La Quiaca's only Bus Station Cafe (it opens at 7am and has a fantastically old coal heater that is really needed in the winter months)
- Take a taxi to the border in broad daylight
- Cross the border calmly on foot and do it without the help of anyone else
- Enjoy a coca tea in a cafe in the Bolivian town of Villazón on the other side
- Get a bus straight out of there within the hour (cross the border at 8am and be on a bus from 10am)
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