Iruya - Remote Altiplano Village in Argentina
Journey to the Northwest Province of Salta for Some Andean Culture
Aug 7, 2008
Iruya, a little off the main route, is often ommitted from visitors' itinirary in their attempt to cover this vast spectacular region known for its famous multicoloured mountains of seven colours. However it is well worth the effort to visit this fortified village especially if your visit coincides with the first Sunday in October when the town stages one of the Northwest´s most colourful festivals, Our Lady of the Rosary.
Attractions
Attractions include the church, Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Rosario y San Roque, built in the Mudejar design typical of the region. Behind fortified walls steep cobblestone streets lead to a typical and very colourful Andean cementary. The graves are adorned with artifical flowers as in this dry atmosphere live flowers would wilt immediatley. Past the cementary the narrow street continues up to a lookout, and at an altitide of 2,780 m the views over the village below and up the valley are amazingly photogenic.
Eating in Iruya
The few restaurants in Iruya serve local cuisine like the many varieties of sweet potatoes, locally made cheese and quinoa, a cereal cultivated in the Andes. A balcony restaurant is ideal as the views are spectacular.
Festivals
Festivals in the northwest are a mixture of pre-colombian and Catholic beliefs. Iryua´s festival, Our Lady of the Rosary, is one of the most interesting in the region for its masked figures representing demons. The festival includes indigenous dancing to music played on traditional instruments.
Iruya´s History The Spanish colonists founded the village in1753, however just prior to their arrival the indigenous valley inhabitants were conquered by the Incas. Pre-Inca occupation is evidenced in nearby rock carvings representing trade between various indigenous groups.
Getting to Iruya
The journey to Iryua is as spectacular as the destination and a stop over at Humahuaca village is well worthwhile and maybe necessary depending on bus schedules. Iryua is 26 km along Ruta Nacional 9, a narrow and windy gravel road. At the highest point of 4,000 m is the cold and breezy viewpoint of Abra del Condor. From here the road dramatically descends 1,220 m in 19 km to arrive at Iruya.
Tours
Companies based in Humahuaca village offer day tours to Iryua for about US$30. The tour typically includes transportation in a 4WD and a guided commentary, a photo stop at Abre del Condor and a few hours in Iryua to explore and have lunch (not included). On the return journey there´s a stop at the pre-colombian rock carvings before returning to Humahuaca late afternoon.
Getting There
Aerolineaus Argentinas runs domestic flights to the regions two major towns, San Salvador de Jujuy and Salta. From Salta public buses pass through Juyjuy along the spectacular Quebrada de Humahuaca. Change buses at Humahuaca village for the 3 hour trip on Ruta Nacional 9 to Iruya.
Accommodation
There is limited accommodation in Iryua as most people visit on a day trip. At the budget end you may be able to rent a basic room from the locals, whereas the most expensive hotel is Hosteria de Iryua which overlooks over the village and the valley. Otherwise Hotel Tacacho, ph (0388) 154357333, E-mail tacacho@iruyaonline.com.ar or Hospadaje Palmira, E-mail: palmira@iruyaonline.com.ar.
When to Go
Spring, winter and autumn (months March to November) is the dry seaon and the best time to visit. Temperatures are low dropping to 0 C at night and rising to about 15 C during the day. The summer months of December to March is the rainy season when the rivers swell and 4WD is reccommended.
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