Jesuit Missions Cordoba Argentina

An Historic Route to UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Aug 26, 2008 Rosemary Findley

Argentina's Cordoba Province owes much to the Jesuits who not only established the University of San Carlos in 1613 but successfully farmed the fertile land.

The four remaining of the original 6 Jesuit estancias (farms), Santa Catalina, Alta Gracia, Jesus Maria and Caroya are all accessible by car from Cordoba along Ruta Nacional 9 also known as Camino de la Historia (Historical Route).

The Route forms part of the Camino Royal (Royal Way), the colonial Spanish road from Lima and Potosi into Argentina. This same route brought the Jesuit missionaries to Cordoba where they quickly dominated the local economy using local indians as a labour source. However unlike San Ignacio Mini in north east Argentina's Missiones province the Cordoba estancias also used negro slaves.

Estancias Jesus Maria & Caroya

These two estancias are both in the small town of Jesus Maria just off Ruta Nacional 9, 50 km north of Cordoba.

Caroya, (circa 1616) was the first estancia built. The complex consists of a simple white-washed set of buildings around a pretty central courtyard with a modest church to one side. The museum contains informative wall plaques explaining Caroya's history in Spanish, however a guide also greets visitors and provides a tour in English or Spanish.
Jesús María, a few kilometres away, was built in 1618 and has a much larger church and a two-story brick central building. This houses various art and history exhibits, including one on indigenous cultures. The monks at Jesús María produced a wine called lagrimilla, which is claimed to be the first colonial wine served to the Spanish king. A green park with an artifical lake surrounds the complex.

Estancia Santa Catalina

The Ruta Nacional 156 west of Jesus Maria leads to Ascochinga where a trail heads through forest to Santa Catalina, 20 km northwest. This estancia, started in 1622, is the largest and most elegant of all the estancias. It is still the residence of the descendants of Antonio Diaz, a mayor of Cordoba who purchased it when the Jesuits were expelled in the 1770's.

The church, dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria,has a Baroque facade similar to southern German and Austrian churches. Opening hours – Tuesday to Sunday April to September 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 6pm, October too March 10am to 1pm and 3pm to 7pm.
The inner courtyards are shaded by magnolias and bougainvilleas and graced with Italianate fountains.
Facilities include a restaurant, La Rancheria, which sells home cooked meals with beer or wine as well as a gift shop selling high quality local crafts.
Estancia opening hours - Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 1pm and from 4pm to 6pm. Closed Jan, Feb and Holy Week. English guided tours available.

Estancia Alta Gracia

Located 40 km south of Cordoba and 3 km west of Ruta Nacional 5 Alta Gracia was started in 1643 and the town grew around it. The buildings are beautifully restored and are accessed from the town's main square, Plaza Manuel Solares, through an ornate Baroque doorway.

The Estancia fell into ruin after the Jesuits were expelled, however in1810 it was briefly inhabilted by Viceroy Don Santiago de Liniers. The museum is located in the Jesuit living quarters and features the following;

A top floor of 17 rooms displaying period furniture and art from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
A ground floor of 3 rooms dedicated to the Estancia Alta Gracia and the Jesuits featuring the kitchen and toilets where human waste was channelled into a cistern and used to fertilize crops.
Opening hours are Tuesday to Friday 9am to 1pm and 3pm to 7pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 9:30am to 12:30pm and 3.30pm to 6:30pm.

Accommodation

Comfortable accommodation and activities such as horse riding are offered by estancias in the region. Usually accessible only by car, estancias, some historic, are an interesting alternative to hotels.

The copyright of the article Jesuit Missions Cordoba Argentina in South America Travel is owned by Rosemary Findley. Permission to republish Jesuit Missions Cordoba Argentina in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.