Perito Moreno Glacier Argentina
One the World's Advancing Glaciers in Los Glaciares National Park
Apr 9, 2008
Perito Moreno Glacier in the southern end of Los Glaciares National Park in the south west province of Santa Cruz is not only advancing but enormous. Its 250 sq km ice field covers 30kms, is 5kms wide and the face rises 60m above the lake. Although the statistics are impressive they are nothing compared to standing in front of this huge ice wall and watch it glow and sparkle in the sunlight.
The glacier also entertains, especially in the afternoon, when blocks of ice fall from the face. You see it before you hear it, the calving of the ice is like cannon fire, then a huge splash and a small iceberg floats off into the lake.
As Perito Moreno advances it gradually closes the two arms, Sur and Rico, from the main body of Lake Argentino causing the water level to rise some 25 and 30 metres. After 3 or 4 years the pressure becomes too much and the ice spectacularly breaks freeing the water re-establishing flow again. That really would be something to see, especially as the noise of the ice breaking can be heard from El Calafate. For more information on glaciers click here.
How to Get There
The National Park entrance is 80km from El Calafate township with an entry fee is ARS40 (USD13). Buses leave from the main station,10 minutes walk from the town centre, at 8.30am, 9am and 1.30pm. This allows about 4 hours at the glacier including the boat trip ARS38 (USD12 )to the glacier face.
Guided tours can also be arranged from El Calafate.
Perito Moreno's Popularity
While the glacier is magnificant the crowds of tourists lining the boardwalks greatly detract from the experience. Even though tourist numbers remain high the months of November, March and April these months are better than the high summer months of December to February.
Extensions to exisiting boardwalks are in progress which hopefully will cope better with the large number of visitors.
Other Glacier Excursions
Perito Moreno is one of 47 glaciers fed by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field that straddles Argentina and Chile. This icefield is the world's third largest reserve of fresh water outside of the poles. Excursions to Upsala (the Park's biggest glacier), Spegazzini and Onelli glaciers can be made in catamarans from Puerto Bandera. Agencies in El Calafate can arrange the 12 hour day trip.
El Calafate
Set on Lake Argentino the town is pleasant and has a wide choice of restaurants, excursions and accommodation options.
El Calafate is accesible by air from Bariloche, Buenos Aires, Rio Gallegos and Ushuaia. There are also weekly flights from Puerto Natales operated by Chilean airline DAP. Buses from Puerto Natales Chile take about 6 hours.
Accommodation
There is a good range of accommodation in El Calafate and some tourist estancias out of town. The only accommodation in the Glaciares National Park is the very expensive Los Notros Hotel or camping. The advantage of both is you can enjoy the glacier after the bus loads of tourists have departed.
Los Glaciers National Park
Declared a Patrimony of humanity by UNESCO in 1981 the Park offers more fine scenery than thePerito Moreno glacier in the southern sector. The north, accessible from El Chalten village, has some great trekking and views of the impressive peaks of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Day walks can be made using the town as a base which avoids lugging around heavy backpacks.
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