The Old Patagonian Express Argentina
Ride an Historic Steam Train Through the Patagonian Countryside
Aug 4, 2008
Affectionately called "La Trochita" by the Argentines because of the train´s narrow 75cm gauge, this well loved train makes regular two and a half hour return journeys as a tourist attraction. The whole experience is very authentic which starts when you buy the ticket in the old wooden office full of "La Trochita" memorabilia.
Before departure the steam train pulls up to the station impressively hissing and belching steam. It parades back and forth several times giving everyone the opportunity to take photographs. When it's time to board passengers take a seat in the original carriages from the 1920's. Everything is wooden including the rather hard, narrow seats. However the atmosphere is cosy with a wood burning stove in every carriage.
After a short commentary from a guide the train pulls out of the station and despite it's short journey of only 12kms to Nahuel Pan there is a dining carriage serving coffee and snacks.
The Journey
The train travels through the Argentine Patagonian steppe to arrive at a Mapuche community. There passengers can see Mapuche crafts before bording for the return journey.
The History
Like most railways worldwide this 402km line, through Patagonia from Ingeniero Jacobacci to Esquel, was a lifeline to small villages and they struggled badly with the railway´s decline. The long distance was unusual for such a narrow gauge, something that makes "La Trochita" a unique and historical monument of Argentina as well as the original 1922 steam engines that still pull the carriages. For more history see La Trochita website.
The train featured in Paul Theroux´s novel "The Old Patagonian Express" a name given by Theroux for his book. It has always been known as "La Trochita" in Argentina.
Reservations, Timetable & Cost
Frequency of departures vary according to month of travel. Presently in May there are departures at 10.00am on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. In June to beginning of July this reduces to one 10.00am Wednesday departure per week . In July and August there are daily 10.00am departures except for Sunday. Check the Esquel website for updates and other practical tourism information for the area.
Adult fare is ARS50 (USD17 ) ;Students and Retirees ARS35 (USD12) and child fare (age 6 to 12) is ARS20 (USD7).
Other Historic Train Journeys
The history of rail and the hardships endured by pioneers to build them fires the imagination . In New Zealand´s South Island you can relive the history of rail during the gold rush days by cycling the Central Otago Rail Trail or take a scenic route through snow covered mountains on the Tranz Alpine Train Journey.
Other Attractions Around Esquel
Despite the spectacular scenery driving into Esquel from San Carlos de Bariloche or other Argentine cities Esquel is not a particularly attractive town but is a good base for the following excursions ;
- Los Alceres National Park - The main attraction is a lake boat trip to the old alerce forest, where you can see a lahuán or alerce tree more than 3,000 years old.
- Visit the pioneering Welsh village of Trevelin. The name means 'the village of the mill' in Welsh. The first Welsh settlers arrived in the area with Colonel Fontana's expedition in 1885. Here you can enjoy a sumptuous Welsh afternoon tea at Nairn Maggies and visit the pioneers museum. Nairn Maggie is a famous local who lived to 103 and spoke fluent English, Welsh and Spanish.
How to Get There
Aerolineaus Argentinas operates three flight a week from Buenos Aires to Esquel. A cheaper alternative is LADE which also flies to Esquel three times a week. Alternatively there are daily flights to San Carlos de Bariloche where you can hire a car and drive the scenic 190 miles to Esquel. Buses from Buenos Aires, San Carlos de Bariloche, Puerto Madryn, Trelew, Comodoro Rivadivia and Chile all travel to Esquel. It's best travelled during the day as the mountainous Patagonian scenery is a highlight.
Accommodation
Esquel has a range of accommodation options listed on the Esquel website and the helpful tourist office has a accommodation list with prices and will phone ahead for you.
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